As promised yesterday, we did enjoy a lovely breakfast this morning at the Paradores. And also as promised, I did not add champagne to my orange juice (toughest thing I did today!). The hotel was indeed wonderful, particularly as its origin was originally as a simple pilgrim hospital in the 12th century and then it evolved to the headquarters of the Knights of the Order of Santiago, which was formed to protect the pilgrim way. I will confess that every time I walked down the staircase to the lobby, I ran my hand along the stone railing and could almost feel the history!
Our accommodations tonight are a lot more humble, but honestly just as pleasing. We are back in an albergue and back on a road less travelled. We also pushed on a further 10km from the “standard stop” (at least as per the book we all seem to be following), so between the less travelled route and a bit longer push, everyone gets a lower bunk tonight! Believe me, this is a good thing.
Our actual walk today was not super picturesque, with much of it really being about getting out of Leon. When we arrived at our intended spot for the day (about a 19.5km walk) it was way too early to stop. We decided to take a break and have a sandwich (there isn’t much in the town we stopped at so the guy at the tiny grocery store kindly sold us some bread, ham and cheese and then made us a sandwich!!). I also bought us a bag of chips (really, you need salt) that we shared with the young pilgrim couple already having their sandwich. They left a bit ahead of us – and so kindly left 2 of their cookies in the chips bag. I know it’a a small thing, but it’s the pilgrim way.
We have continued on from the lunch break a further 10km – ideal as, while today ended up being almost 30km, tomorrow’s very long walk into Astorga has now been significantly reduced and we will have more time to see some of the sites.
Our final 10km today had some weather challenges. The wind started whipping really hard and you could see the black sky approaching. We wisely decided to don our rain coats and pants on our terms – good thing as we no sooner had them on and the skies opened. It poured sideways and then it hailed (ouch!!) and then we heard a boom – not what you want to hear with metal poles in your hand. Anyway, obviously all ended well and I can report that my jacket and pants are both still waterproof – I won’t discuss my supposedly waterproof shoes! Compared to last year the weather has been great and I can’t believe this is the first time I’ve had to put my rain pants on.
The village we’re in tonight is tiny. I’ve attached a panorama picture of the main intersection and also a picture of the local bar (don’t worry, we were accompanied by young James the Anglican priest from London).
Camino 2017 - the sequel 