Day 10 – Commando Pilgrim

Okay, I will get to the subject line in a second, but let me first assure you that it does not mean that this pilgrim (or any other pilgrim to my knowledge) travelled “commando” today.

This evening finds us in Astorga, chocolate capital of Spain – although totally frustrated in our efforts to actually buy a huge hunk of chocolate.  I seem to be stymied by Astorga – last year I enjoyed a pity party parked in my bunk at the albergue (with crummy weather and a crummy cold and a crummy attitude).  This year we avoided the albergue and opted for the Hotel Gaudi which is fine and has a lovely view of the Bishop’s Palace but was clearly not designed by Gaudi and it is overcast, blustery and freezing (actually below freezing) again. Sigh…I’m sure it’s really a lovely place.

At any rate, because we wisely walked 10km extra yesterday, today was a very manageable 21.5 km and we did get out to explore both Gaudi’s Bishop’s Palace and the cathedral (some pics attached).

We had a most amazing walk today! All in, the terrain was generally pleasant although not breathtakingly beautiful and the weather was sketchy at best – cold, overcast, damp and a few drops of rain. Our first 4km got us to the town of Hospital de Orbigo where the magnificent bridge survives – one of the longest bridges in Spain and built in the 13th century over an existing Roman bridge.  We stopped for breakfast at the town and were shortly joined by Pilgrim Andy who had arrived from the road not less travelled by (the 2 join together at this town).

You have to understand that all I know of Andy comes from Rosemary and Laura’s blogs prior to my arrival – he is a minister from the UK, talks non-stop and is a horrific snorer.  Well… the 3 of us set out from breakfast and walked the ensuing 17km into Astorga together (we have a common – very quick- cadence) and let me add the following descriptor… he is facinating!!!! We started by comparing music on our iPhones (he mentioned much of his was hymns and I countered me too, except for The Monkees, John Denver and The Who – we still need to have a full sing-along). He’s a Methodist minister so we had a chat about that and then somehow we got to his pre-ministry time. Holy cow!!!! He spent 5 years in the RAF (not as a pilot) and then tranferred to the army.  Why would you ever transfer to the army I asked …. to join the SAS!!!!! He served active for 3 years in the SAS in the first Gulf War and was awarded a Military Cross for it!!!! He did tell us the full story of the Military Cross adventure – because it is now declassified!!!!!  I know there are a lot of explanation marks here and I generally consider them quite poor grammar but I don’t think I’ve had many conversations as interesting as this morning’s – oh, and his wife Ruth was also in the RAF and her duties included air traffic control in Bosnia.  Suffice it to say, the 17km flew by and I sure hope to walk/chat/sing with Andy again (and since I can sleep through anything I’m even okay to be in the same albergue with him).