Author: peggys2017camino

It was really cold when we left Astorga this morning – like below freezing, see your breath type of cold. Fortunately, the sun was shining and, while things never super warmed up (mitts on until lunch), it was a glorious day.

I think the best part of the Camino starts upon leaving Astorga, mostly because you start the trek into the mountains.  It is sooo lovely.  The path is like walking in cottage country in Ontario (rocky a la Canadian Shield) and the mountains are ablaze with yellow and purple flowers. 

So yes, I did sing the entire soundtrack of The Sound of Music (technically the stage version with Mary Martin as Maria and the 2 songs that were in the play but did not make it to the movie – that’s the LP that Mom & Dad had and we grew up listening to).   And with the purple headed mountains I was looking at, All Things Bright & Beautiful was also pretty much on repeat in my head.

I also did a whole lot of reminiscing about childhood fun at Birch Point Lodge because the terrain is so similar and the air felt like a Canadian Thanskgiving weekend most likely spent with our Follett cousins at Grandma Gould’s house on Lake Kashagawigamog (and I think most of you actually know my amazing Aunt Margaret who is still quite the lady at 92!).  It’s interesting, but not surprising, that those childhood days at BPL and the wonder and sheer abandon we experienced the world with then, was referenced by many of you in the lovely notes you sent at the end of my Camino last year. Cousin Beth – you will be delighted to know I chuckle every time I look at the picture you sent of you, Diane and me on the cabin steps at Birch Point – and I think the 3 of us are glad that Stan, Peter and Tom never saw it before really getting to know us!

Anyways, I am rambling.  We pressed on an additional 5km straight uphill at end of day today (total distance of 26km) so we can get to the Cruz de Ferro very early tomorrow – and then work our way gently down the long and steep downhill. Many other pilgrims have had the same idea so we are in a VERY simple but cozy and delightful albergue for the evening.  We are on the second floor – which means mattresses on the floor and really scary stairs up (seriously, I am terrified of open stairs and these are open, narrow, steep and rickety).  A delightful young English lad, Patrick, is with us and I think I may have to play an old lady pity card and ask him to carry my knapsack down for me in the morning!

Okay, I will get to the subject line in a second, but let me first assure you that it does not mean that this pilgrim (or any other pilgrim to my knowledge) travelled “commando” today.

This evening finds us in Astorga, chocolate capital of Spain – although totally frustrated in our efforts to actually buy a huge hunk of chocolate.  I seem to be stymied by Astorga – last year I enjoyed a pity party parked in my bunk at the albergue (with crummy weather and a crummy cold and a crummy attitude).  This year we avoided the albergue and opted for the Hotel Gaudi which is fine and has a lovely view of the Bishop’s Palace but was clearly not designed by Gaudi and it is overcast, blustery and freezing (actually below freezing) again. Sigh…I’m sure it’s really a lovely place.

At any rate, because we wisely walked 10km extra yesterday, today was a very manageable 21.5 km and we did get out to explore both Gaudi’s Bishop’s Palace and the cathedral (some pics attached).

We had a most amazing walk today! All in, the terrain was generally pleasant although not breathtakingly beautiful and the weather was sketchy at best – cold, overcast, damp and a few drops of rain. Our first 4km got us to the town of Hospital de Orbigo where the magnificent bridge survives – one of the longest bridges in Spain and built in the 13th century over an existing Roman bridge.  We stopped for breakfast at the town and were shortly joined by Pilgrim Andy who had arrived from the road not less travelled by (the 2 join together at this town).

You have to understand that all I know of Andy comes from Rosemary and Laura’s blogs prior to my arrival – he is a minister from the UK, talks non-stop and is a horrific snorer.  Well… the 3 of us set out from breakfast and walked the ensuing 17km into Astorga together (we have a common – very quick- cadence) and let me add the following descriptor… he is facinating!!!! We started by comparing music on our iPhones (he mentioned much of his was hymns and I countered me too, except for The Monkees, John Denver and The Who – we still need to have a full sing-along). He’s a Methodist minister so we had a chat about that and then somehow we got to his pre-ministry time. Holy cow!!!! He spent 5 years in the RAF (not as a pilot) and then tranferred to the army.  Why would you ever transfer to the army I asked …. to join the SAS!!!!! He served active for 3 years in the SAS in the first Gulf War and was awarded a Military Cross for it!!!! He did tell us the full story of the Military Cross adventure – because it is now declassified!!!!!  I know there are a lot of explanation marks here and I generally consider them quite poor grammar but I don’t think I’ve had many conversations as interesting as this morning’s – oh, and his wife Ruth was also in the RAF and her duties included air traffic control in Bosnia.  Suffice it to say, the 17km flew by and I sure hope to walk/chat/sing with Andy again (and since I can sleep through anything I’m even okay to be in the same albergue with him).

As promised yesterday, we did enjoy a lovely breakfast this morning at the Paradores. And also as promised, I did not add champagne to my orange juice (toughest thing I did today!).  The hotel was indeed wonderful, particularly as its origin was originally as a simple pilgrim hospital in the 12th century and then it evolved to the headquarters of the Knights of the Order of Santiago, which was formed to protect the pilgrim way.  I will confess that every time I walked down the staircase to the lobby, I ran my hand along the stone railing and could almost feel the history!

Our accommodations tonight are a lot more humble, but honestly just as pleasing.  We are back in an albergue and back on a road less travelled. We also pushed on a further 10km from the “standard stop” (at least as per the book we all seem to be following), so between the less travelled route and a bit longer push, everyone gets a lower bunk tonight!  Believe me, this is a good thing.

Our actual walk today was not super picturesque, with much of it really being about getting out of Leon.  When we arrived at our intended spot for the day (about a 19.5km walk) it was way too early to stop. We decided to take a break and have a sandwich (there isn’t much in the town we stopped at so the guy at the tiny grocery store kindly sold us some bread, ham and cheese and then made us a sandwich!!).  I also bought us a bag of chips (really, you need salt) that we shared with the young pilgrim couple already having their sandwich.  They left a bit ahead of us – and so kindly left 2 of their cookies in the chips bag. I know it’a a small thing, but it’s the pilgrim way.

We have continued on from the lunch break a further 10km – ideal as, while today ended up being almost 30km, tomorrow’s very long walk into Astorga has now been significantly reduced and we will have more time to see some of the sites.

Our final 10km today had some weather challenges.  The wind started whipping really hard and you could see the black sky approaching. We wisely decided to don our rain coats and pants on our terms – good thing as we no sooner had them on and the skies opened. It  poured sideways and then it hailed (ouch!!) and then we heard a boom – not what you want to hear with metal poles in your hand. Anyway, obviously all ended well and I can report that my jacket and pants are both still waterproof – I won’t discuss my supposedly waterproof shoes!  Compared to last year the weather has been great and I can’t believe this is the first time I’ve had to put my rain pants on.

The village we’re in tonight is tiny.  I’ve attached a panorama picture of the main intersection and also a picture of the local bar (don’t worry, we were accompanied by young James the Anglican priest from London).

It will come as absolutely no surprise to anyone that we are kicking back at the 5-star Paradores hotel in Leon – and loving it! To be honest, I feel like I deserved this amazing break from shared (like with 22 bunks in our room last night) accommodation far more  year as it was at my 20 day mark. That being said, I’m not about to check out and return to the municipal albergue and I fully intend to enjoy my eggs Benedict in the morning (regrettably I do intend to pass on adding the champagne to my orange juice though).

Our walk today was again in beautiful sunshine and warmth. Because it is some local holiday and because we were relatively close to Leon from the time we started (walk was only 20.4km total) we passed many locals out enjoying a walk of their own. It was so delightful how many of them stopped to chat with us and wish us the very best for our Camino – perhaps we could all take a lesson from them.

Things started very early (too early) at the albergue this morning. We were pretty much last out and on the road by 7:00am and that was actually a tad too early as it was still a bit dark.  I have no problem getting up early, but I do insist on being able to see the road as it is way too easy to stumble with all the uneven terrain. There were actually some people up and out by 5:00 which seems a bit crazy – and I will confess I wasn’t super happy about being awakened that early. Oh well, to each their own.

The walk itself today was not nearly as pretty as most days as it was really all about walking into Leon which is a fairly large city (pop 130,000).  As we passed through the  village I stayed at last year (recall I went 6km further on the prior day last year) we passed a small park area that was absolutely exploding with irises in full bloom – how beautiful and how really amazing that I realized I had stopped last year as well to enjoy the same beauty!  Funny – so often as I stroll along I can place each step from last year, who I took it with and what we were chatting about.  Apparently my head is a font of relatively useless knowledge.

I can report that today I finally was singing in full, albeit, as always, in my head. Rosemary and I somehow got talking about complex pop music, including The Who’s Tommy. I love that music and Tom kindly bought me the CD years ago ..and I downloaded a lot of it onto my phone a few weeks ago to keep my selection of hymns and Monkee songs company for this year’s Camino. I’m pretty sure I made it the whole way through Tommy before we arrived at Leon.

Rosemary and I were also chatting about Monty Python and it has been agreed some education may occur this evening as she really doesn’t know any of it.  I’m thinking the Spanish Inquistion (kind of necessary given where we are), The Lumberjack Song, the Dead Parrot sketch and if I still have power, the Argument. 

I can’t believe the weather we’re having – started the day without either my jacket or my buff and was quickly down to just my t-shirt.  For those of you who might be worried, a buff is basically a neck warmer that is lightweight but expandable – keeps you warm by protecting the pulse point in your throat and can double as a hat by pulling it up or as a way to anchor your ballcap on. An absolute must have for all walkers and my Christmas present from Jamie last year.

The first 16.8km was shared only with the 20 or so pilgrims who opted for the road less travelled by last night – recall it was a 2 day decision. The terrain was lovely through rolling fields and on the longest remaining part of the old Roman road anywhere (according to the guidebook). I’ve attached a picture of the road itself – a little rocky but generally easy underfoot (although on every step I was happy to have been neither a Roman legionnaire walking on it in sandals or a slave building the darn thing!). 

Our total mileage today was 24.4km/15miles. I’ve been feeling strong out here and I’m not sure what kicked in (maybe the Aleve I took first thing this morning) but I was soooo in the zone today – my body felt super  great and I feel like I could have happily walked on forever.

I dragged Rosemary into the (and just like last year) and I quote, Trendy Bar Elvis.  The hostess there was every bit as friendly and the sandwich every bit as good and the toilets every bit as “interesting”.  Highlight of the day may have been directing my friend the Princess to the loos there (she reads this so there may be a price to pay tomorrow).

We’re enjoying a cold beverage sitting on the lawn at our albergue with Richmond and Joy.  We likely would have pushed on a further 6km today to get closer to Leon (tomorrow’s destination) but we decided to come to the same spot as Joy so we could enjoy a final dinner together before we separate tomorrow.  Real cheap lodging tonight – 5€!!

The Roman Road.

Bar Elvis!

Tonight’s albergue

Yet another lovely and sunny day – it all looks so different without the rain of last year (and you’ll notice in the photos that I haven’t had my rain pants on yet!).

I’m about 140km/87miles in and feeling strong so far. Today was the day where the big 2-day option kicked in and again we took the road less travelled by – and again only a very few other pilgrims also chose this option (and I still love that poem).  We’re enjoying a beer on the patio with Joy, John from England and Richmond from Long Island – and they’re about the only folks here, other than another 6 or so at the municipal albergue.  We are sad to know that we will lose Joy in Leon as she will be taking a rest day with plans to arrive in Santiago on May 9 ( we will arrive May 7). We will also lose John in Leon as he will hike up to Ovierto and then into Santiago via the Camino Norte – I’m anxious to hear how that goes as I would love to do that Camino another time (oops – was going to tell Tom that privately!!). 

All is good. Rosemary’s feet are holding up and we are shipping her bag pretty regularly to ensure that continues.  I am enjoying myself as much as last year – I missed the mountains at the start and haven’t yet hit the ones in Galicia so I have not yet been doing the sing-along Sound of Music – wait for it!

On the home front – go Leafs go!!!!

Also – can anyone tell me what the trees in the pictures are. They’re amazing – the vines grow out and into other vines from other trees!

What a great day!!!!  We started with a long 17km of gentle farmlands (and no facilities!), with a final 10km of gently rolling hills into Terradillos de Templarios – the final stronghold of Jacques de Molay and the Knights Templar.  I loved this walk last year and I loved it again today.   It is funny, this year I’m really not consulting the guide book at all as I seem to remember each step, each emotion and each wonderful memory – I even spent much of today thinking about my folks as I did last year.   So wonderful!!!!!

We stopped for some nourishment after the 17km first part and were joined by Patti and Joy. Not quite sure how we got on the topic, but Rosemary and Patti did some serious eye rolling as Joy and I took off on a Monty Python dump.  To be fair, Joy may have started it – not a chance, I did.  You just can’t help saying “no one expects the Spanish Inquisition” here (oh no, not the comfy chair!!!).  It seems one of Joy’s friends sent her the video of the fish slapping dance when Joy was thinking of bailing on the Camino with the note that this was her way of slappping some sense into her.   Oh dear, we progressed to the argument, 4 Yorkshire men, the Lumberjack song (I told Rosemary she wouldn’t have picked up on the title of yesterday’s post) etc.  Too much fun!!!

Given the very long walk today, we shipped Rosemary’s bag, which I think we will do again tomorrow as there is another near 30km on the agenda.  We will both make it!!!  And it is soooooo lovely to be receiving almost daily emails from last year’s Camino family encouraging us on.

As today’s walk was lovely and serene but not a whole lot different in scenery, I don’t have too many pics.  However, as you will see, we are enjoying a gin & tonic.

Love to all.

With another 21km under my belt, I’m sitting comfortably in Carrion de Los Condes in the back patio of our albergue for the evening – the same lovely Santa Maria where I stayed last year with the same warm welcome (sit and have some tea and biscuits while I take your heavy load for you) and invitation to the sing-along, vespers and mass (my Camino friend Lysa from Colorado has taken the training to be a Hospetelier and plans to return to Santa Maria in the fall to work here). The big differences from last year though – the weather is sunny (although it was freezing for a long time – as in 0C/32F freezing with winds of 20km/h – they were 30 yesterday) and Rosemary is with me!!!! 

Last night we had a great dinner (again at the same really good restaurant as last year). Patti from Toronto and Joy from Australia also joined us, as did John from Wales. Over dinner we learned that Joy is a member of the Endeavour Chorus – a 90+ female 4-part harmony acapella group. They’re part of the international Sweet Adeline’s organization and placed 10th last year at the international competition.  It sounds amazing between the music, choreography and costumes – like an episode of Glee on steroids.  I have googled them and also looked on YouTube – I encourage you to do as well. They are amazing!!!

John is a real card. He has suggested that since we’re in Carreon tonight perhaps we could make a film “Carry On Up the Camino”. Rosemary, Joy and Patti looked at him like he was nuts and I was laughing so hard I was crying! Probably most of you don’t get this either but for sure anyone who grew up with Bob Reed as a father knows all the “Carry on” movies

We have a very long walk tomorrow – but I’m really looking forward to it as it was one of my favourites last year.

We started today in a truly bittersweet way – by saying adios to Laura while also celebrating her tremendous strength and perseverance in travelling more than 200 miles on the Camino.  When I arrived in Burgos on Sunday and saw the condition of her feet I was truly scared – so terribly beat up.  I have no idea how she walked so steadily with us these past 2 days.  Last night she made the only decision truly available, to journey home.  Yet again a very clear reminder that your feet are always the random factor in long distance walking.

Once we pulled ourselves together (and we had to “re-pull” a few times throughout the day) we enjoyed a lovely walk of approximately 24km. The sky was a beautiful blue again – hard to imagine the difference year over year. As I look back at last year’s post for this day the title was “Mud” and the pictures were pretty gruesome.

We commenced the day with a rather brisk cardio workout – a 1km march up a 20 degree incline hill (not exaggerating and the sign post warned us of the grade) followed by a 300 metre down at the same grade.   I trek up hills like a Billy goat so generally make it to the top ahead of Rosemary (which is why I have so many pictures of her coming up a hill – unfortunately the morning ones are always a little hard to make out as we’re walking east to west). Rosemary is much more fleet of foot than I, so she can kill a hill on the way down and waits for me at the bottom. Relatively complementary walking styles, including a fairly consistent cadence on the flat (years of walking together from our apartment to the university).

About mid-way through the day we came upon a small stone chapel surrrounded by lavender in bloom. I remember how beautiful the structure was from last year – this year it was open and we were able to go in. It was wee, but inside was one of the Sisters who offered us coffee, tea and cookies – all for support with no payment expected. How lovely!  I have attached a picture of the interior below.

We also saw our first stork in a church steeple today. I know I will see them by the dozens every day from here on in, but they still thrill me every time.

Throughout the day we have hop-scotched with Joy from Australia who was with us last night and has joined us again this evening. Patti from Toronto is next door and the 4 of us will have dinner together this evening.

Tomorrow will be Rosemary’s first step on this last half of the Camino (we are in Fromista where she left from last year). We are both excited. Her feet are not perfect but are looking good! Wish us well!!!

Tonight finds us in the wonderful town of Castrojeriz, having spent a second day on the lovely plains of the Meseta.  Sunny, warm and absolutely beautiful again today – loving it!!!!

We have treated ourselves to a semi-private room at this evening’s albergue which means a private bathroom, real towels and a bed with sheets.  I don’t really deserve the treat after only 2 days but I’ll take it anyways.  The albergue itself was once a wine press – press is still in the dining room and the cellar is below – and we get a free tour and wine tasting after dinner!!!

Last night continued the friendship and wonder of Hornillos as most of the folk staying at the albergue joined together for the communal pilgrim dinner.  We all laughed so much and got to know each other well.  Patti who is also from Toronto has been to Antarctica 4 times (you all know of our failed trip to Antarctica this year) – she presented a perfect travelogue with pictures on her iPhone – penguins who actually seem to smile and pose for the camera.  Dee and Kevin from the south of England are a joy – it is his 3rd time walking the Camino and her first.  They are both hilarious and a joy to walk with. Most amazing of all is Martine – she is also Canadian, from Quebec and more specifically, Lac Megantic.  All of my Canadian friends reading this will have just done the same “ohhhh” that Laura, Rosemary, Patti and I each did sequentially last night as we learned where her home is.  For my American friends you can google the town but I will briefly tell you it was the site only a few years ago of a horrific train accident with a loss of life so severe virtually everyone in the town suffered some loss. Martine is our age (a youngster – ha ha), has been a widow for a few years (prior to the accident), one of her sons is a fireman and was a first responder the night of the explosion and one of her daughters had been in the downtown core only an hour before.  Martine is walking alone – and probably has more courage than the rest of us put together.  As dinner wore on last night the men shuffled off one by one leaving the ladies to have a good old gab – almost as if we had all known each other forever.

Tomorrow is a longer and more challenging walk. Wish us well.